With a few best practices and expert tips, you can create a long-lasting garden path or patio on top of soil from home. It’s the perfect way to upgrade your garden in time for summer and add more functional areas to the space.

However, placing paving slabs on soil can be tricky; different soil types can make creating an even and stable base difficult, and the soil can cause issues over time, including cracking, shifting, and sinking.

To help you avoid these issues and create a pavement that you’ll love for years to come, follow our guide below on laying paving slabs on soil for beginners.

First things first: the pros and cons

While it’s perfectly fine to lay paving slabs on soil, like anything else, there comes a few benefits and risks.

Before you jump into the task, it’s best to make sure whether laying paving slabs on soil is the best option for your project.

Pros	Cons
Simple process: No advanced skills or tools are required.	Weed growth: Placing paving on soil can cause weeds to grow through the flags if not properly sealed or maintained.
Quick installation: Patio slabs are quick to install on soil, as long as you prepare efficiently.	Risk of uneven surface: The slabs may become uneven and create an unsteady surface if the soil isn’t properly compacted.
Cost-effective: Laying slabs on soil requires fewer materials compared to other base types, reducing costs.	Less durable: Without a solid sub-base, slabs may shift, crack, or sink over time as the soil moves.
DIY approved: Paving slabs can be installed on soil from home, saving time and money on hiring a professional.	No long-term guarantee: Using soil as a sub-base doesn’t offer as much longevity as a concrete base.
Flexible design: Paving slabs can be arranged and readjusted with ease on soil, allowing you to fix the layout.	Weather damage: Areas with heavy rainfall or frost can lead the soil to shift and loosen the paving slabs.
Ideal for low-traffic areas: It’s perfect for decorative paths or light garden walkways, where a solid base may not be necessary.

Tools and materials checklist

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, if you’ve decided to stick around, then we can get right into the nitty-gritty of the installation process.

But first, you’ll need to gather the following:

Paving slabs
Sub-base material (MOT type-1 or crushed hardcore)
Sharp sand
String and stake
Shovel and rake
Cement
Edge restraints
Rubber mallet
Spirit level
Tape measure
Plate compactor
Wheelbarrow

PPE: It’s important to invest in some good, sturdy work boots, a face mask to avoid breathing in debris, and glasses to protect your eyes from flying materials.

When storing paving slabs, raise them off the ground on a piece of wood to lift them from the ground— it keeps them clean and safe from water damage and prevents them from warping.

A step-by-step guide to laying paving slabs on soil

Once you’ve gathered all of the necessary materials and tools, it’s time to create a beautiful new path or patio area for your garden.

Before we do anything, you need to make sure the soil is sturdy and healthy enough to lay down paving slabs. You can do this by performing a hand test— squeeze the soil, and if it holds its shape, then it’s good to go.

If it crumbles in your hand, you’ll need to improve drainage by installing a thicker and more compacted sub-base for clay-heavy soil areas. Loam soil (slightly clumpy and wet) is the best type of soil for laying paving slabs.

Prepare the site

1. Mark out the area

Once you’ve confirmed the soil is healthy (you can also use a soil test for more accurate results), use a rake to remove any grass, weeds, roots, or debris.

Mark out the area where you will be laying the paving with string and stakes to avoid digging up too much ground.

2. Excavate the ground

Then, dig a depth of around 150mm (6 inches) into the soil to make a dent for the sharp sand, sub-base, and paving slabs to sit in.

You can use a spirit level to make sure the ground is even as you’re digging. It’s best to dig a slight slope in the ground away from your home to prevent water pooling in your garden.

3. Compact the soil

Use a plate compactor to compress the soil firmly, creating a flat surface for better stability.

Doing this will also prevent the paving slabs from shifting or sinking, so your new patio area lasts longer.

4. Add barrier fabric

Here, you can add a layer of barrier fabric to protect the integrity of the soil, preventing contamination and weed growth.

Simply unroll the fabric across the area and overlap the material by 100mm (4 inches) at the seams where the fabric edges meet to prevent soil from seeping through.

Lay the sub-base

5. Add type 1 MOT

Now, you can add the type 1 MOT into the excavated and compacted area. Start by pouring in the crushed stone and gravel mix on top of the soil and barrier fabric until it’s 100mm thick.

This will provide a strong and stable base for the paving slabs.

6. Compact the sub-base

Then, use the plate compactor to press down the sub-base until it’s level and firm, with no bumps.

Make sure it’s spread out evenly to avoid an uneven base layer.

Add sharp sand

7. Spread the sand

After that, spread a 30mm layer of sharp sand over the sub-base. We do this to create a smooth, level surface, ready for the slabs to sit neatly on top of.

Once you’ve poured the sand onto the sub-base, use a rake to spread it evenly across the surface.

8. Level the surface

Take your straightedge (or a plank of wood) and drag it across the top of the sand in a back-and-forth motion to level the surface— the sand should sit evenly across the entire area.

You can add a bit more sand to areas that are dipped and re-level the surface to make sure the bed is smooth, ready for the slabs.

Lay the paving slabs

9. Position the slabs

Begin to position your paving slabs, starting at one corner and working your way across. If you’re placing the slabs in a high-traffic area, use a wet mortar mix to lay the slabs and to movement.

Place each slab onto the sand bed one at a time and leave a gap of around 15mm between each one. You can use spacers for the gaps, ensuring they are consistent throughout the area.

10. Tap them into place

Using your rubber mallet, gently tap the paving slabs into place so that the slabs sit level in the bedding layer.

11. Check the alignment

Now, use a spirit level to make sure the slabs are sitting level with one another— you don’t want to end up with an uneven pathway or patio area!

If you’re laying the slabs in a herringbone or basket weave pattern, check that the pattern aligns correctly as you go.

Install edge restraints

12. Place the edge restraints

Position edge restraints around the perimeter of your paving slabs to prevent them from shifting under pressure, constant use, and rainy weather.

Choose between:

Timber edging– for a natural, rustic look. These can be nailed, screwed, or pegged into the ground.
Plastic edging– for a durable and low-maintenance option that’s resistant to harsh weather. Anchor these into the ground using stakes or nails.
Metal edging– for a sleek, modern look, with options between galvanised steel or aluminium. Secure these into the ground with spikes or pins.

Leave a small gap (roughly 10-20mm) between the slabs and the restraint to allow for natural expansion and contraction.

13. Fix restraints into place

Then, dig a slight trench of 100mm deep around the edge of the paving with a spade or shovel for the edge restraints to sit in.

Compact the soil for a smooth base and install the restraints with different fixings, depending on the type you’ve chosen. After securing the restraints, backfill the trench with soil or a small amount of gravel to hold them in place

Jointing

14. Fill the gaps

Now that the paving slabs are laid, you can fill in the gaps between each slab with jointing sand (or a mortar mix for a more permanent solution).

You can use a broom or brush to sweep the sand into the small gaps and leave it to naturally settle into the spaces to prevent weed growth.